Trend Report | London Fashion Week Men's Runway Recap
A detailed look at the trends, themes and streetwear highlights from London Fashion Week Men's Fall/ Winter 2019-2020
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We're still loving the chill vibes on the men's runways, which have been getting more and more laid-back for several seasons. One thing menswear designers understand is how to portray tradition in modern ways, and showcasing how a dapper-dressed dude can convey a relaxed look is one of our favorite things to see unfold in the season ahead. Forget about the stuffy suits and boring colors, this guy is anything but a wallflower.
Yes, the "Gucci-fication" of menswear is calming down a bit, meaning we are certainly anticipating an overall cleaner, more handsome look in the seasons ahead. However, the dreaded "athleisure" word is not going anywhere. The good news is, it's evolving to be a bit more refined in its appearance. We love the track suits in lustrous hues, worn with otherwise classic overcoats rendered in bold patterns.
The mid-century aesthetic that we expected to see on the FW 19/20 runways brilliantly illustrates how to make 1950s jazz style look fresh and modern. From abstract interpretations of classic menswear sweater motifs, to layers of marled knits, and even the perfect mismatched suit underpinned with a fine gauge turtleneck, this theme is about as cool as they come.
After several seasons of ultra-clean silhouettes and a necessary approach at smart function, the FW 19/20 runways in London were all about utility being front and center and super emphasized. As a continuation of last summer’s warcore trend, this guy is all about being prepared — from hyper-dimensional tactile vests to convertible pants and cocoon-inspired puffers.
Our team has been really inspired by Scandinavia as of late, and the FW 19/20 runways had plenty of looks that were Nordic-ready. There was plenty of washed and time-worn tweeds, stiff layers of chambray, and a refreshing injection of color for Fair Isle sweaters.
The anorak is the new bomber jacket, coming in a multitude of fabrics and shapes. From 90s-inspired color blocking to a more tailored version in leather, it’s an accessible option for all markets that can be as sporty as it is refined.
I mean, come on, who wouldn't want to roll around in a cable knit sweater pant? Astrid Andersen had a cool assortment of these cozy pants in chunky knits, but we're also seeing other designers do versions in quilted nylon, inside out fleece, and boiled wool.
Yes, rugby shirts are one of the oldest staples in the menswear roster, but after Rowing Blazers (one of our favorite New York brands) started making them cool again, it seems like every runway had a version. There were polo-rugby hybrids, super quirky versions, and even ones with branded patches like at Kent & Curwen.
It’s all about ultimate comfort with a strong dose of texture, and mohair delivers on that need. Some of the designers in London accentuated traditional plaids and stripes by using extra-picked wool mohair that looked like it had been around for generations.
LOADS OF LOGOS
With the 90s still being a key influence, it’s no wonder that there was an overload of logos on the London runways. From picture-perfect collaborations to bold placement, we’ll never forget what we’re wearing, that’s for sure.
WIDE LEG PANT
Wide leg trousers are a refreshing look in bottoms and were heavily seen throughout London street style. This boxy fit offers an opportunity for interesting details like darts, tailored pockets, and cropped hems. Deep colors like navy blue and dark brown give this item a vintage appeal while twill fabrics and lighter colors can transform these trousers into a casual everyday look
Puffer jackets are getting cozier this season with oversized silhouettes and warm fabric choices such as corduroy. These thickly quilted downs are a perfect top layer option for the coldest days of the winter season.
The bucket hat is one of the newer key items in accessories. Originally intended for the summer season, the bucket hat has now crossed over into winter. To give it a seasonal look, these hats were either seen in a waterproof fabric with a wide-width brim or with a warm and cozy pile fabric.
Night Walker is an underground look that plays with dramatic silhouettes and standout graphics. This theme is perfect for experimentation with layered styling and conversational fabric choices.
London street style wouldn't be complete without nostalgia for English traditional attire. This Dapper Dandy theme focuses on blending the British essentials such as the wool blazer, shearling jacket, and tailored trousers, styled in loose-fitting silhouettes and layered elements.
KENT & CURWEN x “PEAKY BLINDERS”
Always one of our favorite collections out of London, the David Beckham-backed Kent & Curwen continued to evolve their dapper gent aesthetic. What we loved most for next fall? The collaboration designer Daniel Kurns is doing with the hit Netflix/BBC show "Peaky Blinders," about the best-dressed gang from the 1920s you've ever seen. Some styles have printed canvas patches featuring the brand’s rose motif done as a Victorian-era photograph with the writing, “Garrison Tailors by Order of the Peaky Blinders.”
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